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September 17, 2004
Transylvanian interlude
Castle Bran perches above the village and guards the pass to Wallacheria.
Looking every bit as eery as Dracula's Castle should, Castle Bran perches atop its rocky outcrop. Actually, the Castle (despite my earlier misinformed post) is only Dracula's Castle in Western legend. It sits on the border of Transylvania and Wallacheria, the neighbouring Province of Romania, and Vlad Tepes (or to us, The Impaler) was not ruler of Transylvania but of its neighbour. During his time this was a garrison fort guarding the border and the approaches to Brasov - and it served as a Customs Post. Vlad and the Ruler of Transylvania had a convenient arrangement on this and shared the tax take.
In the 1890's it ceased to be a garrison and was given by the town of Brasov (then known as Kronstadt) to the new Queen Maria of Romania. She refurbished it as a country retreat and bequethed it to her daughter Princess Ireena, who turned it into a hospital and worked as a nurse there in the second World War. Under the Communists it was allowed to decay until it had almost been lost. Since the late 1970's, however, through the efforts of dedicated individuals and finally the City Council of Brasov the Castle has been restored to the condition and furnishing style of Queen Mary's ownership. It is a gem and well worth the effort to get to.
Our Romanian hosts' generosity was almost embarrassing in that the value of their currency is non-existent, yet they managed to show us hospitality of unbelievable quality. The rising prosperity is slowly becoming more apparent, so, too, is the improvement in living conditions, lifestyles, and the economy. This is a people determined to restore their national pride, their economy, and their democracy - and while they will unashamedly shop around for ideas and ways to improve, have achieved a small miracle all on their own. I have no doubt at all that they will achieve even more in the years to come!
For those seeking something unspoiled and genuinely beautiful - pay the Romanians a visit. Don't miss Transylvania; there are still bears (smaller than Black Bears) who don't mind coming to town to pick up supplies, either. The wolves are a bit more shy but can be heard in the forests and on the mountains and occasionally seen on the forest edges. Another "don't miss" is Moldavia - especially the Orthodox Monasteries.
Do pray for the people of Romania as they shake off 50 years of oppression and degradation. They are a proud nation - but also a generous and hospitable one.
Posted by The Gray Monk at September 17, 2004 10:48 AM