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December 14, 2003
A Polish interlude ....
The conference in Poznan was one of the best organized I have attended, and I must compliment my hosts, the Polish Fire Service College staff in Poznan. Everything ran to time, translation services were excellent (they needed to be – we had papers in Russian, Lithuanian, Polish and English.) and the three speakers from "Western" Europe (or the EU if you prefer!) were treated like Royalty. My fellow EU guests included a lady Doctor from the Federal Investigations Bureau of Germany (Bundes Kriminalampt or BKA), a lovely lady who gave a really interesting paper on the use of dogs in fire investigation in the German Federation, and Doctor of Engineering from the Svent Istevan University in Budapest, Hungary. (OK, Hungary is technically Eastern Europe - but it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire for a very long time and considers itself "Western" even though the people are Magyar - from Mongolia!) Both these last speakers gave their papers in flawless English, easing the task of their interpreters immensely – particularly in Laslo’s case, as Hungarian is even more difficult than Polish to learn or speak!
Poznan is a fascinating place, situated in what has been called (and still is in places) Pomerania. It has a chequered history and has suffered tremendous damage in both World Wars. It is an ancient city even by European standards, having been founded around an island citadel in the confluence of several rivers. Over time the citadel became a monastery and is now the site of the rebuilt cathedral, seat of the Archbishop of Poznan. The cathedral houses the tombs of the first two Kings of Poland, making this the city in which the Polish nation was first formed
The modern cathedral, which replaced the medieval building destroyed in World war 2, stands on the site of the original 9th Century cathedral. It is the twin towered building in the centre of the picture.
One of the glories of the cathedral, which, by comparison with the Baroque Dominican Convent church in the Old Town centre, is quite stark, is the Golden Chapel at the East end. This is Baroque gone riot, how it has survived the destruction is a miracle, but the walls and ceiling are covered in gold leaf. Here lie the sarchophogii of the first Kings of Poland in regal splendour. It was created in the 18th Century by a wealthy nobleman and has survived all the intervening wars.
We were reminded too that it was in Poznan that the last King of Poland lost his country and his throne to a Prussian army in the 18th Century. Poland has been a country in the mind of its people only since then, enjoying only a brief revival between 1919 and 1939 until it finally obtained its freedom from foreign control in the Shipyard Revolution which brought Lek Walensa to power. Through the long years under Prussian, Swedish, Russian, German (1860-ish to 1918, and again 1939 - 1945) and finally Soviet rule, the people have preserved language, culture and sense of nationhood through their food, their folk music and their folk tales. At times persecuted for refusing to adopt their rulers ways and at other times simply left to their own devices, they have every right to be proud of what they have achieved and of what they are currently doing.
All around, and particularly in the old town, are examples of Polish architecture and the rich history of the place just seeps out at you. A great deal is being done to restore this and preserve the character of these buildings and their importance as living history. There is also ample evidence of the Communist "utilitarian" era as well, with horrendous concrete blocks of flats, and ugly squat concrete structures which do nothing to blend into their surroundings. The Poles are for the most part keen to dynamite these and replace them with new buildings where necessary that blend in to their surroundings or are more in keeping with Polands rich tradition. Some examples have already been built and make an interesting contrast. Then, of course, there are others who feel that some at least of these should be kept as a reminder. I'm on the side of the "dynamite them" lobby!
I look forward to going back again, and perhaps, next time, learning to master a few words of the language. You certainly need to be able to say a little more than “Yes” and “Good health!”
Although some would say that being able to say yes to a drink and then raise the toast is sufficient!
Posted by The Gray Monk at December 14, 2003 09:44 PM